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Indigo/Shibori/Boro/Sashiko/Rust

A kimono style jacket that has references to Boro cloth, using Shibori patterned and Indigo dyed pieces created in previous indigo workshops.

This summer ‘Gertrude and Friends’, a Crafts retreat with residential facilities at a restored chateau in, Aquitaine SW France, have invited me to teach some courses. One of the three courses I will lead is Magical blue and Gold ; Indigo, shibori and rust dyeing. It will be a combination course week looking at three related techniques that at least have one major connection in that they are all historic natural dyeing processes. The Kimono jacket is one of the ideas for something that the students may make as a way of contextualising their indigo, shibori and rust samples and experiments. Such an item, in other words, is the ‘walk-away-with’ product.

The Japanese term Boro can be roughly translated as ‘tattered’ and defines a genre of indigo dyed textiles ingeniously patched, pieced and mended throughout Japan from late C18 until the middle of the C20. It’s message of re-use and re-purposing aligns very much with what we, at Texatelier, are about.

Shibori “The inventive Art of Japanese shaped resist dyeing” Wada, Rice & Barton. The patterns which resist the dye when dipped in the dye vat are usually made on white cloth. The exquisite nature of the patterns are akin to an individual’s handwriting as no two hands can recreate the same pattern. Basic methods to create resist patterning include stitch, wrapping, clamping and knotting which can then be dyed in the natural indigo vat, after which they are untied or unstitched to reveal beautiful, intricate and inividual shibori resist patterns.

Sashiko is a form of decorative reinforcement stitching that started out of practical need during the Edo era. (The Edo period or Tokugawa period is the period between 1603 and 1868 in the history of Japan, when Japan was under the rule of the Tokugawa shogunate and the country’s 300 regional daimyō. [wikipedia])

Tattered or repaired

Derived from the Japanese boroboro, meaning something tattered or repaired, boro refers to the practice of reworking and repairing textiles (often clothes or bedding) through piecing, patching and stitching, in order to extend their use. It is associated with the indigo-dyed hemp clothing traditional in Japan before the introduction of cotton. Worn areas of cloth are patched over or older garments cut up and joined, with running stitches or areas of sashiko (running stitches sewn through layers of fabric), used for reinforcement and to quilt layers of cloth together. This historical spirit informs the contemporary trend for ‘distressed’ or repaired-looking clothes. [From V&A]

Thrift and creativity

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, boro garments might be handed down through many generations of impoverished rural families, their making an expression of mottainai – conveying a sense of regret concerning waste. This is an extreme example of patchwork’s association with thrift, but, as in other textile traditions, the joining of pre-existing materials to create a new fabric has generated a highly distinctive cultural product. Today, boro textiles, often futon covers, are regarded as works of art and a cultural record of homespun cloths, dyes and techniques. The most heavily patched side of a boro panel, prized for its spontaneous and abstract qualities today, is often the back or inside of the piece, as more care was taken to arrange fabrics on the side that would be seen. [From V&A]

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An “arashi” (polewrapped) shibori patterned and indigo dyed Thai silk scarf overdyed with rust.

The two dye stuffs, indigo and rust, represent what I describe as the “Magical Blue and Gold” that can be achieved on cloth. Beautiful and individual scarves are another of the “walk away with” outcomes that students on my courses will be able to create.

If you want more details about this course Contact Gertrude and friends, all the information on this and other courses as well as the chateau are to be found there.

Featured

New Spring Eco Dyeing Courses from Nikola Orpen in UK. Dorset, Suffolk and Oxfordshire. March/April 2019

Eco Colour on Cloth – UK Tour 2019

Three weekends of Eco Textile Workshops with Nikola Orpen M.A.

Sat & Sun 23/24 March 2019 Chapel in the Garden – Bridport 

Sat & Sun 30/31 March 2019 Mettingham Village Hall – Suffolk

Sat & Sun 6/7 April 2019 St. James Centre, Stonesfield (near Witney and Woodstock) and “Hillcrest”, Islip road, Bletchingdon, OX 53DP

indigoshed

Day one
Indigo and Shibori (Japanese resist)
Students will learn how to make up an ORGANIC INDIGO SUGAR VAT (no
nasty chemicals) and using Japanese shibori techniques will create
exquisite and unique samples on cloth.

eco colour on cloth image email

Day two
A day of Eco Printing using flowers and leaves.
Students will learn how to make beautiful prints and patterns on cloth
and paper by capturing colours directly from nature using contact
printing and steam.
There will also be an opportunity to purchase some ‘special’ cloth
and plain silk scarves to dyes.
Please bring an apron, rubber gloves, fabric scissors, notebook and
pen and any special (not synthetic) yarns or cloth of a neutral colour
that you may like to use.
Refreshments are provided all day, please bring something for lunch to share.

It is not necessary to attend both days but will be more
fulfilling if you do. Both courses are suitable for all levels.
A reservation is necessary as courses tend to book up quickly.
For more information and to secure your place with a £20 deposit per
day please ** email me** Nikola

Summer 2020 courses – SW France

Many students in the past have asked if there will be residential TexAtelier courses so I can now announce that I am really excited to be teaming up with ‘Gertrude and Friends’ next Summer 2020 in the S.W. of France for four seven-day courses.

le pecile

The venue is an exquisite luxuriously restored 18th century château with 15th century outbuildings set in organic farmland with beautiful accommodation for up to 8 students. There are sun terraces for relaxing, a yoga room in the orangery and a superb saltwater pool. There is a light and spacious purpose built studio where the courses will take place, and will be available for students to use from 9am until 10pm each day. The delicious homemade food provided will be regional and sourced from the local market and where possible organic and there will be trips out to the nearby gourmand night market and to a fabulous quirky brocante. This is your chance to fully recharge your batteries and create some amazing bespoke textile pieces and meet new people with a common passion for Textiles

The whole experience will immerse you into the regional life of beautiful Aquitaine a part of France renowned for it’s outstanding natural beauty, gourmet food and extraordinary bastides.

The Chateau is near Prayssas – France 47.

The courses I am teaching are entitled.

  • 1. ‘Magical blue and Gold’ indigo, shibori and rust dyeing, you will be creating an individual beautiful Japanese kimono style jacket, samples and scarves.
    23rd- 29th July 2020 (NB: I have written a contextual article in another post, ‘Indigo-Rust’)
  • 3.’Playing with Nature’s Colours’ natural dyeing with plant colours and mordants and eco printing and rust on paper and cloth. You will create an individual dye recipe book, fabulous unique scarves, samples, gift cards, homemade books, bespoke gifts and fabric lengths.
    15th-21st July 2020

Courses will be taught in English.

During the week you will be provided with course tuition, materials, accomodation, 3 meals a day (including a 3 course dinner with wine) use of salt water pool and yoga room.

Prices vary according to accommodation choices.
See the “Gertrude” site for full details – link below.

For much more detailed information and to book and pay directly on-line
you can visit the Gertrude & Friends website directly.
We, here at Texatelier, will also take enquiries and reservations,
please use the secure Contact link on the top menu.

Included:

3 full days and 2 half days in the atelier studio with your course tutor

6 nights accommodation

All materials, fabrics and equipment that are part of your course

2 half day visits to local attractions

All breakfasts, lunches, dinners – except one meal in a local restaurant at guest’s cost

Snacks and beverages

Complementary pick-ups and drop-offs at Port Sainte Marie or Agen train station, dependent on mutually arranged times

Not included:

Flights, trains, taxis or any other transport to and from Gertrude and Friends 

Contact us to reserve a place

Contact Gertrude and friends

NB: some details may be subject to change.

I am sending this out on a first come first served basis so if you would like to book a place on any of the courses or need more information you can use the ‘contact us’ option on the top menu.

I am expecting a lot of interest in these courses held in this historic and amazing place so book early to avoid disappointment.

Living colour on cloth 2019 UK Tour

I am happy to announce that my recent UK tour of Living Colour on
Cloth, went really well.
All the participants in workshops achieved some stunning results using
Eco Printing and shibori resist with Indigo. It is always so good to
meet and work with new people and hear their stories too.
I am planning to hold some more UK workshops in the Autumn, details to follow.

Bull Dog Clip Shibori

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The Oxfordshire group April 2019
eco dyeing
Eco Dyeing Bundles
Shibori twists

What you paid for: My African accomplishments

npk1

By public subscription, your subscriptions, I have completed my three months of voluntary service in Ghana.

Thanks to your generous support for my ‘Out to Africa’ and ‘FaceBook musical challenge’ appeals, much, much, much … has been accomplished. I want to share it here with you and let you all know what you have really contributed to, for it wasn’t ‘me’, it was for the hope and direct development of real people with real fear and loathings …. real need and, in the end: real gratitude, that I am asked to pass on.

 

nyariga2

I’m going to lay it out as a simple list for ease of speedy reading – I’ll follow up with some pictures and minuté in later blogs.

As an overarching instrument I created a named initiative under the ‘INCOME’ and ‘Procom’ projects of the Ghanian NGO TradeAid, namely: “Procom Organic Vegetable Initiative” (POVI)

My role and aims were to educate and assist local farmers into organic farming methods and transitions ; the main reasons, simply stated,

  • increase income, and thus abrogate poverty
  • desist in detrimental and polluting activities with over use of costly synthetic farming chemicals

seancompost

In three months I have, (but not without assistance):

  • set up two small test farms
  • conducted more than 20 ‘Farmer Field-school’ trainings – reaching four separate communities, thereby touching up-to 100 farming families, possibly as many as 400-450 individuals by DIRECT INTERVENTION.Delivery of key components by practical demonstration:
  • Natural and ‘fast’ composting methodologies
  • large volume composting pit methods
  • soil building
  • crop-specific compost and soil adjustment
  • non-chemical integrated pest management and
  • natural liquid pesticide manufacture and application
  • design, overseeing and monitoring of 6 large scale, triple pit composting chambers for the manufacture of up-to 3.000 liters per chamber-set per season of mature compost
  • manufacture of three free-standing compost ‘cubes’
  • membership and contribution to CAOF, an upper-east region organic farming coalition
  • production and sharing of more than 25 self-penned locally-aimed illustrated training documents, with the commencement of some translated into local dialect and language
  • networking
  • outreach and community liaison
  • 4 detailed training films
  • all work photographically and film recorded and shared
  • creation of ‘dropboxes’ and web-sites and facebook pageshot berkley compost pile

POVI farmers are: Anti Agri-Chem, Anti poison and Pollution, we are: ‘Forward and Towards Organacism’

Towards a cleaner, healthier, more valuable, non-polluting cropping methodology

Towards greater soil health, fertility and productivity

Towards a new ‘ethical’, sustainable farming practice

Towards a more fullfilling working practice for jobbing farmers

Towards greater and better quality yields for enhanced income, therefore: greater food security and decresed poverty for farming families.

Smock

Unlike some African countries Ghana does not have a particularly aggressive road-side sales culture. Then one meets the irresistible Melody whose charms had me smock-wearing in about 2 seconds, fully documented and the live-fed on FaceBook, to prove it.

I did look as good as she claimed in the traditional Ghanaian smock, but I didn’t buy. She was fine.

smock4

The real find of the day was in fact new friend Melody – She’s a real blast!

More Compost/Less Agri-Chems

hot berkley compost pile

Another demonstration of 1 cubic meter of fast compost (30 days then ready for application)

I am encouraging these to be built everywhere as free-standing, readily available soil nutrition. The farmers are being taught to make them, and the take-up for the training is most frequently the women, who make them fast – 2 hours tops.

This is a ‘direct-action, lightening-strike’ intervention that has captured the imagination … compost can do that!

pile1

In some of the villages and farming communities that I am working with, we have constructed 6, three ‘tank’ , deep compost-pits from block work.  Each chamber will hold upto 1,000L of finished compost – but compost that is a year in the making and maturing.

With the two types of compost generation we will be able to sustain huge annual land coverage and soil-building.

seancompost
They call me ‘Compost-Man’ – I say fine …. but shouldn’t that be MR. Compost-Man?

Soil-regeneration by compost = Greater fertility, Higher yields, Decreased plant disease, Enhanced water-retention, Erosion eradication and Pollution abrogation … Where’s the down-side?